We'd like to thank all the ladies who joined us for our Ladies' Night. We had a wonderful time, and we hope all of you did too!

Upcoming next month: On the 4th of July we will be open from 9 AM to 3 PM, will have 50% off on all annuals--and Uncle Sam will visit us that day!

Ninebarks (Physocarpus opulifolius) are deciduous shrubs with attractive foliage, lovely early summer flowers, and attractive autumn fruit. Add that to the exfoliating bark on mature branches for winter interest, and you've got a great year-round shrub for your garden.

Ninebarks are native to the Americas and, like many natives, are highly adaptable. They can take both acidic and alkaline soils. Although they prefer moist, well-drained soil in sun to part shade, they will take deeper shade, clay soils, and they even become drought-tolerant once established. What's not to like?

They are wonderful massed in shrub borders. They are also great as a hedge, screen or for erosion control on banks. If you wish to prune, do so immediately after they stop blooming, as they set buds in summer for next year's flowers. Pruning in late winter or early spring will reduce the flowering.

Hydrangeas are one of the most popular plants in America. They can be grown indoors or outside in the garden, allowing their blooms to be enjoyed at any time of the year. Florist-grown hydrangeas can provide double the enjoyment since their flowers can be enjoyed indoors first, and then be pruned back and transplanted outdoors for a second bloom later in the season.

The two most popular types of hydrangea are mophead and lacecap. Mopheads have large, rounded heads, while lacecaps have a smaller cluster of flowers surrounded by a halo of larger flowers around their edge.

Most hydrangeas grown today come in shades of pink, blue or white. In many varieties, the color can be altered with the addition of lime or aluminum sulfate.

In the garden, hydrangeas do best in a morning sun, afternoon shade location and look great when planted under trees or other larger shrubs. Keep your plants watered regularly so the soil is moist but not wet. Most hydrangeas perform best when fed a couple of times during the growing season with an acid food.

Some of us are gardening in "minimalist" spaces-- but we do not have to forego a vegetable/herb garden.

Imagine a beautiful container garden display right on your patio. Instead of flowering ornamental plants, perennials and annuals, substitute into the plant palette (or palate!) herbs, vegetables, and some berries. "Where do you begin?" you ask. We shall tell you.

What are your favorite vegetables and herbs? Make your list. Whoever said that they all had to grow only in the ground? Not at all. Picture this. Instead of growing a flowering vine in a pot, grow green beans, peas or even squash in espalier fashion.

Beans and peas are "twiners" and will easily grow up a trellis or other structure. Don't be afraid to plant an entire 6-pack of pole beans in your pot--or maybe even two 6-packs. The bean plants will grow upward and intertwine. Dinnertime arrives and you simply harvest what you need for that evening. You may even have so many beans, you'll need to share with friends.

But you can also tie up the vines of your favorite squash. The only trick with squash is that, once it begins to fruit, you will need to add further support for each squash. That is easily done creating a sling from panty hose or a similar material and tying the sling onto the trellis.

In the pots with your beans or squash, you could plant garlic or some low-growing herbs.

Do you love to cook and use fresh herbs? An herb garden is perfect in containers. Some herbs need full/part sun to thrive. Some can tolerate a little more shade. Arrange them on your patio accordingly. And if you have a little time (or thyme!), move the containers to follow the sun. It is easier to move large pots if they are placed on a plant dolly. (That's a plant stand on wheels.)

And did we mention the tomato? Tomatoes of all varieties will grow in pots (if you use a large enough pot), but we recommend the determinate varieties or cherry/grape tomatoes for best results. Many determinates don't need support; for ones that do, you can put a tomato cage around the pot.

And, when the weather cools again, as it will, plant some cool-weather plants like cabbage and kale--and remember that a lot of those warmth-loving herbs will grow very well indoors.

Whether you choose to grow everything edible you can find or just a few of your favorites, you will be on the road to creating a beautiful and bountiful container vegetable garden.

Bon appétit!

July 4

Independence Day Blowout Sale--50% off all annuals!

We will be open 9 AM to 3 PM, and Uncle Sam will be here for a visit!

What's the difference between a plant fungus and a plant virus?

Answer:

The big difference is that most fungus problems can be controlled with fungicides, while viruses cannot. A fungus normally attacks the foliage, while a virus can attack every part of a plant--eventually killing it. Most fungus is transmitted through the air while most viruses are transmitted through the soil.

The most common types of fungus are leaf spots (red, brown, or black), mildew (white), and types of rust (orange and brown). Leaf spots normally affect both sides of leaves, mildew the top side, and rusts underneath. They are fairly easy to prevent and control with a fungicide.

Most viruses enter a plant through the roots. They are prevalent in poorly draining or overwatered soils that never dry out. Many viruses cause leaf wilt; you will see this in the individual leaves--or the whole plant may look sickly and drooping. The only solution when a virus is identified is to try to let the soil dry out. If you catch it early enough, some plants can recover. Unfortunately, by the time most people discover a virus problem, it's usually too late.