Perhaps one of nature's greatest miracles is the flower bulb. It goes into the ground as a crusty brown bulb, and over the course of four to five months bursts through the soil and becomes a plant full of beautiful blooming flowers. And who doesn’t love to see daffodils or tulips and other flower bulbs in their full blooming glory? For many of us, it’s the first sign that spring has finally arrived.

Tulips, crocus and daffodils are the traditional standby bulbs. But for those that like the unusual, there are many spectacular varieties to choose from. They can be layered in containers or in your flower bed so that the colors just keep popping up. It’s best to consider how many layers (or rows) you want to plant and work from low bulbs in the front of your planting bed (or outside edge of container) and then gradually increase the height towards the back of the bed (or inside of the container).

Two spring blooming bulbs that perform better on their own are Bearded Iris and Amaryllis bulbs. Bearded Iris re-produce themselves and spread out over time so give them lots of room. The giant Dutch Amaryllis perform better forced indoors in containers where their beauty can be enjoyed without venturing outside.

So don't be disappointed when your neighbors have beautiful flower bulbs popping up in their gardens next spring and you have bare ground. Plan and plant ahead! Choose your bulbs now and plant in the fall to see the treasure of their blooms in spring.

Autumn is a good time to prepare your lawn for the year ahead, and the best time to tackle any long-term improvements. Tasks such as raking out lawn debris, eradicating moss, feeding, and aerating will improve the quality of your lawn greatly if carried out on a yearly basis.

Under some conditions, grass clippings and debris can form a thick "thatch" on the surface of your lawn. This affects growth of the grass and should be removed with a lawn rake. Raking also removes moss.

If grass growth is poor, aerate the lawn. You can do this by pushing the prongs of a fork about 15 cm (6 in) into the ground. Brush a soil improver into the holes made by the fork. Use sand or a mixture of fine soil and sand if the ground is poorly drained. Alternatively, use peat, a peat-substitute or very fine, well-rotted compost if the ground is sandy. Reseed as necessary; fall is an excellent time for reseeding.

If your lawn is in poor condition and needs reviving, apply an autumn lawn feed. It is essential that you use one formulated for autumn use, as spring and summer feeds will contain too much nitrogen. If the grass contains a lot of moss, apply a moss killer. Use one recommended for autumn use; the mixture known as lawn sand, sometimes used to kill moss, contains too much nitrogen.

You can (and should) tidy an uneven edge whenever it's necessary, but doing a full job of it in autumn will relieve the pressure at busier times of the year. Hold a half-moon edger against a board held in position with your feet.

A classic example of contrarieties can be seen in pottery. It is both durable and fragile. Durable, in that it is capable of lasting for centuries--even millennia--as proven by the understandings we have achieved of long-dead civilizations based on the pottery that archeologists have found. Fragile, in that with a single hammer blow a piece of pottery may be shattered into a thousand pieces, impossible to repair.

Container gardens have enjoyed a resurgence as of late; they make near-instant gardens for those who have limited space in which to garden, for apartment dwellers, and for those who love filling their outdoor living spaces with the variety offered by container gardens. And the containers that we choose to showcase our plantings are every bit as important to the look and feel as are the plants. Whether we're using Talavera, ceramic, terra cotta, or clay pottery, or cast stone, fiberglass or plastic formed pots, we must care for our pots--as we care for our plants--during the cold months of winter.

During the warm season, try not to set your planters directly on dirt or mulched beds. And place 2-4" of porous stones or shards of clay pots in the bottom of the pot prior to filling with soil so as to prevent the soil from leaking out of the drainage holes, or clogging them. This will aid in extending the life of the pot.

When first purchasing your pottery, examine the benefits and detriments of the particular pot you're considering. If frost is a problem in your area, keep in mind that glazed pottery is even stronger than terra cotta, due to the type of clay used, and the extremely high firing temperature. However, the outdoor saucers are not recommended for indoor use as condensation can build up on their outer surface when placed in a warm room. Some pottery is highly susceptible to cracks caused by moisture in the pot freezing: therefore wintering them must be an automatic part of your fall readiness for the winter to come. Clay pots are porous, made of natural materials, environmentally friendly, and with the innovative colors, designs, and shapes now available, an easy-to-care-for plus to brighten up any garden room.

Fiberglass and plastic pots are lightweight and durable, and many are cast in textures and patterns that simulate natural stone and terra cotta or ceramic pots, so very large or ornate containers are popular and less expensive options. They need regular cleaning and care, but can be extremely durable if properly stored.

If you are not bringing your planted containers indoors to weather the winter months so that with the arrival of warm weather they can go back outside, then depending on the type of container, there are several methods of winter protection. If you've planted annuals, the best way to guarantee that your clay, plastic, ceramic or fiberglass pots will be usable come spring is to empty them of soil, and thoroughly clean them with warm water and a sponge; a mild dishwashing detergent and a soft brush is useful if the stains and salt residue is significant. Let the pots dry thoroughly, and place them upside down, preferably on a raised surface such as a plank. If you have space in your garage to store them, all the better; if they must be outdoor inhabitants during the winter, after doing the above, cover them with a tarp or its equivalent. It's not the moisture itself that can destroy your pots, but the freezing of the moisture; thus, keeping them off of the ground is essential.

Being responsibly pro-active with the pots that have enhanced your outdoors all season long will ensure that you will be able to enjoy them for years to come. Come see the wide variety of containers that we offer and our specialists will be happy to answer any questions you may have.

What's the difference between a daffodil and a narcissus?

Answer:

There is no difference. The two words are synonyms. Narcissus is the botanical name for daffodils, just as ilex is for hollies.

Daffodil is the common name for all members of the genus Narcissus, and its use is recommended by the American Daffodil Society at all times other than in scientific writing.

In some parts of the country, any yellow daffodil is called a jonquil, usually incorrectly. As a rule, but not always, jonquil species and hybrids are characterized by several yellow flowers, strong scent, and rounded foliage.

But who really cares? They are all lovely flowers--and we say, "Call them whatever makes you happy!"